Saturday, July 9, 2011

Race and Employment in the Emirates

In America, people are taught that all races are equal and it is never appropriate to discuss someone's race openly.  Instead, all of life and business is supposed to proceed without any acknowledgment of a person's ethnicity, nationality, or skin color.

It's different here.  People discuss race - openly.  People over here say things like - "Whatever you do, don't try to bargain in that shop - he's Lebanese and you'll lose."  Or "Be sure to get to the meeting early (but not too early) - they're German."  And of course, everyone over here knows that the Brits like to enjoy a pint (or two or three).  These are stereotypes, I know, but ones that are openly used here.

Now, the things that I am about to say may sound shocking to you - my mostly-American readers.  So please hear this as a description of how things exist in the culture, not as an endorsement of this system.  I'm just trying to get you a little understanding of how people here view the world and the people in it.  What follows is the social pecking order - from those who feel that they rightly belong at the top, to the ones clearly at the bottom.

Gulf Arabs - this means Emiratis, Qataris, Saudis, Kuwaitis, Omanis, Bahrainis.  The Gulf Arabs are proud of their common Bedouin culture, proud that the Arabian peninsula is the birthplace of Islam, and are proud to speak Arabic, the language in which the Quran was revealed.  The Gulf Arabs aspire to work as merchants and business-owners.  Emiratis generally want government jobs - which are incredibly high-paying and almost exclusively reserved for them [the Emirati guys in the picture below stamping passports at the airport all make six figures].  All of the Gulf Arabs want to work in white-collar jobs.  Blue-collar work is beneath them.



Western Expatriates - this group includes Americans, Brits, Aussies, Kiwis, South Africans.  Expatriates from these countries generally work in professional roles from banking to healthcare to education.  You'll also see them as hotel managers, airline pilots, financiers, and restaurateurs.  [There are a few western expats here who are French, German, Spanish, Italian, etc., but most are from the English-speaking countries that I listed].  These expats generally work in white-collar jobs.  Blue-collar work is too low-paying for anyone to move here from Western countries.  And with literally millions of people in south Asia and southeast Asia who are willing to work for almost nothing, there's no need to hire Westerners for blue-collar jobs.  

Expatriate Arabs - this group includes (a) the Levantine Arabs (Jordanians, Lebanese, Palestinians, Syrians), and (b) the North African Arabs (Egyptians, Libyans, Algerians, Tunisians, Moroccans).  These are all working-class Arabs.  The Gulf Arabs look down on them as not being true, Bedouin, desert Arabs (from the Arabian Peninsula).  Some will rise as high as VPs at banks, or hotel mangers, and a few oversee large family-owned conglomerates.  But these people almost never hold the top position at any company in the UAE.  Many of these people, however, are lower-level managers, clerical workers, or administrative staff. 

Indians - Indians are the single largest ethnic group in the UAE - 50% of the population of around 5 million are Indian.  Indians can be found at all points on the social scale, from upper management positions, to small business owners, to clerical positions, to blue-collar laborers.

Philippinos - they get an entire category to themselves because they hold most of the service-industry jobs here in the Emirates.  They are primarily salespeople at malls, waitstaff at restaurants, and domestic workers (maids/nannies).  Some also hold clerical, professional, and or managerial roles - but the vast majority are service industry workers. Most are here working so that they can send money to their families back home in the Philippines - sometimes as much as 80% of their salaries. 

The photo below is from the Starbucks on my campus.  The English "Starbucks" is just out of the frame to the left of the Arabic text for "Starbucks Coffee"  Check out the Emirati guys sipping coffee - and the Philippinos working behind the counter (and also notice the Christmas menu on the wall!).


One other point to make as I get to this part of the list.  There are some jobs that people here believe that certain nationalities are suited for.  If I looked at the want-ads for jobs cooking at restaurants, it would not be at all unusual for the ad to say "only Philippinos apply".  You can't say that in America, but people can and do here.  Here's another example.  Cindy and I have a friend from America - a fairly recent college grad who was here staying with some friends for a semester after graduation.  Our friend wants to eventually start her own catering business.  Back in the US, she says, someone wanting to do that would ordinarily work in a restaurant for a while - waitstaff, shift manager, manager - or at a hotel as a waiter, then as a shift manager, and maybe as an events manager.  Then, after a few years of experience, you know enough to start your own business.  That career path doesn't exist here.  Restaurant jobs aren't for Americans.  They're for (mostly) Philippinos.  She would never be hired here.  Ever.  Anywhere.  It's just not done.  She had to move back to the US to start waiting tables.

South Asians and Central Asians - these are the guys who do the vast majority of the manual labor here (and I mean guys - they generally do not get to move here with their families - the men come alone to work and send money back home - the ratio of men to women in the country is 2.74 to 1).  The South Asians are the Pakistanis, Bangladeshis, and Sri Lankans. The less-educated, non-English-speaking Indians fit in this category, too.  There are smaller numbers of Central Asians - Afghanis, Uzbeks, Turkmen, Tajiks, Kyrgyz, and Khazaks.  All of these people are taxi drivers, bus drivers, truck drivers, construction workers, landscapers, and gas station attendants.  They live in huge labor camp dormitories and are paid very little (by Western standards).  In spite of their apparently low pay, they still manage to send a considerable portion of their salaries back to their home country to their families.  And working in Dubai represents a huge financial opportunity for them.


[all photos sourced from Google Images]

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Financing in the UAE

by Cindy

We have some crazy stuff here.  At least anyone with a business background in capitalism or a market economy thinks it is crazy.  Until recently you could buy a $1.5 million dollar car on credit - yep - 100% credit.  It was crazy and the banks were losing money.  They have recently changed the rules where you have to put 20% down and people are balking.  Business is so bad now that car dealers want the rules changed.

They also give out credit cards without verifying your income and your credit limit is not based on your ability to pay back.  No wonder some people are in such trouble!


July 4th

by Cindy

We got together with some of our American friends to celebrate American independence.  It's too hot here to be outside for long so the get together was mainly indoors.  However, we had plenty of apple pie, burgers, dogs, BBQ chicken and the likes.

Will provided the dancing entertainment

What's left of the table after Round One

Jack loving on Will and Chris keeping her distance.

UNO - that's American, right?

The brave souls who were outside


Sunday, July 3, 2011

The UAE Gas Shortage

You all may find this hard to believe, but there's a gasoline shortage here.  Yep - you read that right - a gas shortage here in the Emirates.  Now it's only affecting five of the seven emirates in the UAE (Sharjah, Ajman, Ras al Khaimah, Umm al Quwain, and Fujairah).  It's not affecting Dubai or Abu Dhabi, and it's not affecting Kuwait, Qatar, Saudi, or Bahrain.  But since we technically live and work in Sharjah, it's definitely a part of our world.  Here's a link to a newspaper article about it.

Here's what's happening.  There are four companies in the Emirates that sell gas at service stations:  (1) Adnoc - Abu Dhabi National Oil Company, and then (2) Emarat, (3) Enoc, and (4) Eppco - all headquartered in the emirate of Dubai.  All four companies have stations throughout the UAE. 

Abu Dhabi has oil - lots of oil - 10% of the world's oil - enough oil to pump oil for the next 100 years at current production rates.  So Adnoc has no trouble producing and refining oil, and then selling gasoline.  So the Adnoc stations have a virtually endless supply of gasoline - which they get at cost.   

Now Dubai, on the other hand, only has a little oil left - mostly offshore.  Oil only makes up about 8% of Dubai's GDP [they saw this coming a long time ago and have diversified their economy quite well].  Anyhow, what this means, though, is that the Dubai gas companies - Emarat, Enoc, and Eppco - have to buy gas on the world market at market rates.  But the federal government here in the Emirates has a price cap on gasoline - 1.92 AED per liter [which is $1.97 per gallon for those of you in the US].  So what this means is that Emarat, Enoc, and Eppco buy refined gasoline, then aren't able to sell it at a price that allows them to recoup their costs.  Every gallon of gas that they sell hurts their bottom line.  The more they sell, the worse off they are financially.

So - a few weeks ago - the Emarat, Enoc, and Eppco stations in Sharjah and the four northern emirates started running dry.  The companies said it was because they were "upgrading equipment" and that supplies would  be disrupted for a few weeks.  Nobody ever saw any "upgrade" work being done at stations, and no additional explanation was forthcoming.  Nobody has officially said this, but the concensus seems to be that Dubai just doesn't have the money to subsidize fuel for Sharjah and the northern Emirates.  Or maybe they have the money and just won't do it.  In either case, only Adnoc stations have gas now. 

Saturday, June 25, 2011

Minority Report

I recently had a conversation with a friend and colleague of mine about race and ethnicity.  It's obvious here in the UAE that the Emiratis are at the top of the social pyramid.  That's probably no surprise to any of you reading this.  And so my friend and I were discussing the uncertainty of our lives and careers here.  We both agreed that if something unfortunate were to happen - like getting into a car wreck where an Emirati was injured or killed, or if an Emirati perceived that we had insulted them or their family, or if an Emirati leveled an accusation against us that we had done something unethical or illegal - we question whether we would get fair treatment in a court.  We could be on a plane out of the country (or worse) pretty quickly.

Now we don't fear for this on a daily basis, but it's always there in the back of your mind.  If you're in the wrong place at the wrong time - well - the Dubai dream is over for you.  I told my friend, "It makes me always think about having a backup plan, a fall-back, an exit strategy.  I just never know when I might have to leave.  I can't trust that the system will work for me and so I feel like I live with a lot of uncertainty here."  And my professor friend - who happens to be African-American - said, "I feel like I've always lived with the reality that I might not get fair treatment.  I've never had a lot of faith that the system would work to protect me."  We both sat there for a second and he added, "Living here must be really interesting for you."   

And it is.  It's a completely new experience for me to not be at the top of the social pyramid.  Until I moved here, I never gave a lot of thought to what it meant to be white and well-off in America.  I'm now seeing that there was a lot of certainty and security that came along with that. 

I would like to believe that everyone is treated equally in the US, but I just don't think that's the case.  And even if I am aware of the inequality of races in America - and even if I speak up for change - as a white person I still don't feel what non-white Americans feel.  I don't feel the weight of the day-to-day uncertainty about my life, my family, my career, my reputation, and my personal safety.  The insecurity that creeps in when you're not a part of the dominant social group is palpable.

Interesting, indeed.


Sunday, June 19, 2011

Ireland

by Cindy

Jeff and I were fortunate to spend the past week in Ireland enjoying the cooler weather and green hills and mountains.  It was a great trip to yet another beautiful place.  We are now back in the UAE to teach summer school (Cindy) and research (Jeff).  We will leave for America on August 4th.

Here are some of my reflections on Ireland:
  • Driving on the left side of the road is not as difficult as it seems.  I did have to remind myself quite a bit but it wasn't too bad.
  • Flashing headlights means the same thing in Ireland as it does in the US - beware, a cop is ahead.
  • Ireland really is the Emerald isle.  One of our guides told us that Johnny Cash said there are 40 shades of green in Ireland and it is true.  It really was magnificent.  Everything is green.
  • The roads were SO narrow.  What we think of as country roads, which are 1.5 lanes wide, are their main roads.  I was amazed at how narrow the roads were and how many big tour buses pass through on these roads.  The upside is that the country side has really been preserved and is not littered with infrastructure.
  • The Irish people are very friendly people!
  • We enjoyed a whiskey tasting and I must say that Irish whiskey is better than the rest!  I have never liked American whiskey/scotch/bourbon but we did taste some very mice Irish Whiskey.  Jameson Gold Reserve gets my vote.
  • I'm still not a fan of beer and definitely not a fan of Guinness.  Guinness is good for baking brownies and goes very well with chocolate (try it, you'll be surprised!) Otherwise, no thanks.
  • For whatever reason, the food in Ireland is expensive.  It was all good but really pricey.
  • I will take 45 F instead of 45 C all day long!  We loved the rain, the clouds and the cool weather.  Everyone kept apologizing for the weather but we loved it.
Here are a few pics from the trip.  More can be seen on mine and Jeff's FB pages.
Jerpoint Abbey - those white things in the back are sheep



Jerpoint Abbey - those white things in the back are sheep

Ross Castle

Skellig Michael
Glendalough







Monday, June 6, 2011

Monster Trucks

by Cindy

Jeff and I have noticed over the past few months that there are a lot more trucks on the road.  Someone once told us that trucks could only be bought for business purposes but now the government allows individuals to own them.  I'm not sure if any of that is true but there certainly seem to be more trucks in the country.  We pass this one regularly and it makes me chuckle a little bit each time I see it.  I guess Monster Trucks are not just for Texas.





It is a dually and all!

Big pipes for something...

Monday, May 23, 2011

Tortilla Chips

By Cindy

We are fortunate that we can get Tostitos Tortilla chips here. I'm always amazed that they are whole, too.  They come over air freight and Jeff and I both think they are less broken here than when we get them in America.  Go figure but we'll take it.


Nice, whole chips.  Not a single one broken.

Saturday, May 21, 2011

Friday Prayers

by Cindy

Whether you go to prayers or not during the week, you always go to Friday noon prayer.  I would say it's loosely equivalent to everyone going to church on Sunday mornings, even if you do participate in weekly church activities. If you happen to drive by any mosque in town during Friday noontime prayers, you are likely to be trapped or not be able to get through on the road.  They park anywhere and everywhere.  We were returning from church on Friday right after prayer started.

They have already parked along the curb and are now parking two deep.

This is in the round about, only one narrow lane left to get through.

Notice the heads of the men.  They were late so they didn't get a place inside and they are having to pray outside.  That's unfortunate since it was 46 C / 115 F yesterday.

Three deep in the round about.

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

The Umrah

by Cindy


Wikipedia says the following about the Umrah - "The Umrah or (Arabicعمرة‎) is a pilgrimage to MeccaSaudi Arabia, performed by Muslims that can be undertaken at any time of the year. In Arabic, Umrah means "to visit a populated place". As a technical term used in the Sharia, Umrah means to perform Tawaf round the Kaabaand Sa'i between Al-Safa and Al-Marwah, after assuming Ihram (a sacred state), either from a Miqat like Zu 'l-Hulafa, Juhfa, Qarnu 'l-Manāzil,Yalamlam, Zāt-i-'Irq, Ibrahīm Mursīa, or a place in Hill. It is sometimes called the 'minor pilgrimage' or 'lesser pilgrimage', the Hajj being the 'major' pilgrimage and which is compulsory for every able-bodied Muslim who can afford it. The Umrah is not compulsory but highly recommended."


Jeff and I noticed at the bank the other day, you can finance your Umrah trip with a 0% interest loan.



Sunday, May 8, 2011

Russian Tortillas

by Cindy

Jeff and I enjoyed some chips and queso and quesadillas for dinner this weekend.  We can get everything we need over here but it does take some planning ahead since I have to go to three different stores to get all of the ingredients.  The funny part about the dinner was the tortillas - while they are appropriately called El Sabor, they have Russian on the bottom of the label and were manufactured in Russia!  They were really good so we're not complaining. We are thankful to be able to satisfy our Tex-Mex craving, even if it is with Russian tortillas.





Saturday, May 7, 2011

Snoop Dogg

by Cindy

Snoop Dogg came to Abu Dhabi last night.  After seeing this picture with Snoop dressed up like the locals here, it made me wish we had attended the concert! I have to confess, when I would flip through TV channels and find Snoop Dogg's Father Hood, I would always watch.  He's really quite funny.


Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Our News Headline


I thought I would share the headline from our newspaper.  If you would like to read the whole article, it can be found here. To the left and right of the picture, there are quotes from people all over our region. These are not included in the article so I thought I would pass them on as it might be different than what you see at home.



"Justice has been done." Barack Obama, US President

"We will not allow our soil to be used against any other country for terrorism and therefore I think it's a great victory" Yousuf Raza Gilani, Pakistan Prime Minister

"This establishes that Pakistan has been sheltering terrorists and now the country must take steps against them." AK Antony, Indian Defense Minister

"Saudi Arabia hopes that the elimination of the leader of the terrorist al Qa'eda organization will be a step towards supporting international efforts aimed at combating terrorism and dismantling its cells." Official Saudi statement

"The killing of bin Laden is a positive step that will boost the international fight against terror" Official UAE statement

"Let me make it very clear that we will avenge the martyrdom of Osama bin Laden, and we will do it by carrying out attacks in Pakistan and America" Ahsanullah Ahsan, Taliban spokesman

"We condemn any killing of a holy warrior or of a Muslim and Arab person and we ask God to bestow his mercy upon him" Ismail Haniya, Hamas

"It is certainly our hope that this would mark the beginning of the end of a very dark era" Salam Fayyad, Palestinian prime minister

Sunday, May 1, 2011

Engaged!

by Cindy

Engagements are big celebrations around here.  Not only do your friends and family  know that you are engaged to be married, but anyone and everyone driving by your house knows.  Yep, this is what happens when someone in your house becomes engaged. They drape the whole house with "Christmas" lights.  It is amazing.


Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Just Like Texas - Well, Kind of

by Cindy

There was a great article in the paper this week about a guy who's restored a GMC Sierra pickup truck.  Here's a link to the article:  http://www.thenational.ae/lifestyle/motoring/my-car-gmc-sierra-35-is-an-heirloom-that-has-miles-to-go-yet

The best part is the picture.  Reminds you of Texas, huh?  Well, without the dishdasha that is.

Friday, April 22, 2011

Easter Candy

by Cindy

We've mentioned on Facebook recently that we had Global Days on campus. This is a weekend where the county fair meets a cultural fair.  Global Days is centered around the various countries that are represented within our student population.  You walk around to the different booths / stalls and see the traditional dress, taste the local cuisine, and learn a bit about that country.  While Jeff and I were walking around, he was handed a chocolate candy. A few steps later, he realized that the candy was an Easter egg.  I didn't believe him so I returned to the booth and sure enough, they were giving away chocolate Easter eggs and selling big bags of them.  I picked one up to show Jeff and the lady told me, "They're Easter eggs."  I said, "I know, I'm just surprised."  To which she responded," Why?  Isn't Easter coming up?"  Well, "Yes, but you don't celebrate Easter."  She replied, "It's just chocolate."  Yes, I guess it is.  Just chocolate.

This year, I bought my Easter candy in Palestine.


Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Muslim Evangelism

by Cindy

You might not have ever given it much thought but the Muslims evangelize just like the Christians.  One evening we received a tract about Islam.


The small book was about 10 pages and each page had a paragraph on a specific topic.  The topics were:

The Prophet's Justice and Fairness
The Prophet's Humbleness
The Prophet's Gentleness in Correcting People's Mistakes
The Prophet's Perseverance and Forgiveness
The Prophet's Kindness with Children
The Prophet's Kindness Towards Women
The Prophet's Cooperation
The Prophet's Mercy and Compassion
The Prophet's Simplification and Ease
The Prophet's Patience with Children
The Prophet's Claim on Moderation
The Prophet's Thoughtfulness
The Prophet's Attractiveness
The Prophet's Love for the Poor
The Prophet's Love for His Wives
The Prophet's Loyalty



We aren't planning on converting to Islam anytime soon, but I thought I would share this as food for thought for our Christian readers.

Monday, April 11, 2011

Beautiful and Perfect

by Cindy

We have several friends who are of Lebanese descent.  For those of you that might be uninformed, Lebanese women are considered to be the most beautiful.  Case and point - Miss USA 2010 is Lebanese American.  Apparently they are also Perfect.  I found this t-shirt at Global Days.  I'm proud to say that I have many beautiful and perfect friends!




Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Persian Gulf

by Cindy

I'm not sure what you have in mind when you think of the Persian Gulf but here is what it actually looks like:



Here we call it the Arabian Gulf, since we are in Arabia!  It is beautiful blue green water with soft white sand so going to the beach is quite popular here. The gulf is really shallow so during the winter the water gets cold (around 62 F) and during the summer it gets warm like bath water (around 97 F).

We have snorkeling, diving, deep sea fishing and dolphin swimming in the Gulf.  Not what you expected, huh?

Sunday, April 3, 2011

Party on the Palm

We've been in Dubai for a year and a half now and we're starting to get a little jaded.  Five-star hotels, Michelin-starred restaurants, top-notch entertainers, over-the-top hospitality, high fashion, great sporting events, and fancy cars don't impress us like they used to.  It's all pretty run-of-the-mill for us now.

So when we were invited to a fundraiser recently that was hosted at a home on the Palm Islands, we yawned and said, "It's probably not as nice as people say it is."  We were wrong.

This is one of those places where you walk in, look at your friends and say, "Seriously?" - and then try to wipe the grin off your face.  You just can't believe that you're there.

Of course it has marble floors, granite countertops, high-end appliances, plenty of living space, an entire downstairs that opens to the water.  Oh - and the home also just happens to include a private beach in the back yard.  A friend attended with us and she whispered, "I've never been to a party at a place like this."  I laughed and said that neither had we. 

Enjoy some of our photos.  And be jealous.

This is the GPS screen in my car.  Definitely my favorite picture from the evening.

The house and the beach.

Our friend Katie with Cindy

Nice-looking couple we know pretty well.