Regardless of whether you live in America or the UAE, two things are still true - first, you should never run anywhere after donuts and coffee. And second, if you need coffee Starbucks is an option in your city, you should run from Dunkin.
The name for our blog comes from the book "Arabian Nights." We're moving to Dubai for three years (maybe longer!) and since three years is pretty close to 1001 nights, that's where the name comes from. We hope you enjoy reading about our life in Arabia.
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Running on Dunkin
Regardless of whether you live in America or the UAE, two things are still true - first, you should never run anywhere after donuts and coffee. And second, if you need coffee Starbucks is an option in your city, you should run from Dunkin.
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Healthcare in the UAE
With so much talk in the USA about health care, we thought we would give you an idea of our experiences and insurance coverage here in the UAE. We knew from talking to others that we expected it to be comparable to the USA. We were even in touch with one woman who had her first child in Dubai and seriously considered returning to have her second in the UAE rather than in the USA. While we do not have the need for obstetric services, we can tell you about some of our experiences thus far and how we have paid for them.
Heath Care Experiences
We have already blogged about my first visit for a head cold. We have since figured out that you can buy most 'prescription' medications as 'over the counter' drugs here so when we get sick, we just head straight to the pharmacy for the antibiotics rather than to the doctor for the prescription. Insurance pays for all of the medication, but even if it didn't, they are about $10 for a week's supply.
We needed malaria pills for our upcoming trip to Kenya - we just walked over and got those from the pharmacy as well. The campus clinic didn't have the yellow fever shot so we had to go into town for that one. We were not sure what to expect but it was comparable to a free health clinic in the USA. We waited for about 20 minutes, got our shots (in separate male and female rooms) and then were finished. It took us longer to drive there and back than it did at the clinic.
The birth control I took in the USA is not available here so I have had to switch to something new. I visited the highly recommended American Hospital of Dubai to check on my options and was pleased to find that the recommended options here were in line with those of my Dr. in Lubbock as well as my dear friend Elaine, who is an OB-GYN, and patiently answers all of my questions. The clinic was clean, very well equipped and full of expats. In no way would you have known or felt you were in a foreign country if it was not for the dozens of different languages being spoken around you.
There was another Dr. who came highly recommended that is much closer to our apartment that I did visit once. While I found her to be professional and competent, the facilities and staff left much to be desired.
Health Care Coverage
We have insurance coverage through the University that runs us about 9,664Dhs / $2,633.34 annually. We have a 70 Dhs / $19 co pay when we go to a physician that is not on campus. After that we have 100% coverage and that coverage is Worldwide!! I'm not sure what Obama is pushing there in the USA but at least I know I'm covered no matter where I go!
A couple of other notables - any birth control or birth control consultation is not covered by insurance. And (our parents should stop reading here) "Emergency Medical Repatriation and Repatriation of Mortal Remains" is 100% covered. So even if something unfortunate happens to us, we can be buried in Texas.
Saturday, November 14, 2009
Open Doors. Open Minds.
Everyone mush wash their hands, face, arms, head, and feet before prayer. Men wash here (sitting on the stools) and women wash in a separate area inside the mosque.
This mosque will host about 1200 people. This room is for men and there is a smaller room off to the side for women. Men are supposed to go to the mosque for prayer, but women are permitted to pray either at home or at the mosque.
In case you need to know the prayer times.
And of course - women must cover up!
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
Women - Part 2
So the first question is: "Do men and women receive equal treatment here?" A: No.
Women have separate lines at the bank, the post office, and at government offices. There are even women-only days at the beach and women-only cars on the Metro. So is this equality? No. Is it discrimination? No, it's not really that, either.
Now I realize that there may be a few of you reading this who are supporters of women's rights and think that men and women should be treated equally all of the time. The very idea of separate lines to stand in and separate seating on the Metro is offensive to you. Well, they don't see it that way over here. There are separate lines for women at many places of business because people over here realize that women have an important role in the home. They want to minimize women's time away from the home. That's why there is a separate women's line that gets served before the men's line. It's more chivalry than discrimination.
There is also the idea in this culture that men and women should only be together if they're family. Otherwise, there is a temptation for an inappropriate relationship to develop. So the sexes are segregated. Some of you may think this is going overboard, but here, it's just seen as being extra cautious.
Finally, women have separate lines at businesses, separate cars on the Metro, and separate days at the beach because people here acknowledge that men make the world a harsh, rough, and coarse place. Ask any woman who has grown up with all brothers and she'll tell you what it's like to be in an environment with mostly guys. So over here in the Middle East, they acknowledge that women probably wouldn't want to spend their time in the predominantly male world outside of their homes. Therefore, they have women-only stuff.
So, is it equality? No. Is it discrimination? No, it's not really that, either. In many ways, women receive preferential treatment. As two Westerners who have been taught to value "equality," we were prepared to call what we have seen "injustice." But instead, what we have found is a culture that treats women with consideration and respect. We do still occaisionally hear stories on the news of injustice, but we don't believe that this is the day-to-day reality for most women here. On the whole, women are cherished and protected. They are not treated as property; but they are highly valued.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Guess Who's Coming to Dinner


Friday, October 30, 2009
Deep South or Middle East?
Church takes up most of the day. And afterwards, everyone gets together for a big lunch - it usually lasts a while because we sit around talking, too. Cindy and I got home at around 4pm. And what did I eat today for lunch? Fried chicken - and then ice cream for dessert. Ahhhhhh.

WE HAVE JESUS AND COLONEL SANDERS IN DUBAI.
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
It's a Small World After All
It is true that we have moved almost 10,000 miles away from home. However, upon arrival, we have found that we are not that far from people who come from similar places.
Here are some stories of people we have met and where they are from...
Prior to leaving Lubbock, we were calling around about people we could connect with once we arrived in the UAE. One of the people we called had been in Lubbock the previous day to take his daughter for a campus visit at Texas Tech University.
We found our church in the UAE through a friend who used to travel through Lubbock once a year and then moved to Al Ain, UAE for two years.
When visiting a church in Dubai, we introduced ourselves only to figure out that the guy sitting next to us is a Texas Tech Alumni with family still in Snyder, TX (population 10,783).
The pastor of one of the churches here already knew about us before we visited. His mother-in-law lives in Lubbock and goes to a dentist there who is a good friend of ours from our church in Lubbock.
At yet another place in town, we ran into a guy who is originally from Denver City, TX (population 3,985).
One of my students recommended a hair salon in town so I called and made an appointment with the first available stylist - she's Egyptian but went to college in Austin and her best friend is from Arlington. We spent the whole time talking about things to do in Arlington, TX!
We headed to India for a friend's wedding only to find that a former colleague of mine was visiting the same city in India at the same time! Here's a pic of me and Maruti in Hyderabad. Maruti now lives in Coppell, TX and has been there for 20 years.Even though we are far away, we have discovered it is a small world after all.
Thursday, October 22, 2009
There's No Place Like Home
Shortly after Jeff and I arrived we were wondering what it would take for this to feel like home. We didn't know if it would be a specific event, if one day we would wake up and feel "at home" or if over time we would gradually feel at home. I took a best guess and thought it might be when we were out and about in town and we began to run into people we know. I now know that for me, that makes it home.
This past weekend we headed into Sharjah to get our Emirate National ID. While waiting for our turn, we ran into a family that we know from campus. We had a great time 'chatting it up' (they are British) with them while we all waited. Once we finished up there, we headed to a mall in Dubai to get a gift for a family that had invited us into their home. While at the mall we ran into one of Jeff's students shopping with her mother.
In order to understand how unlikely this is, you have to first understand shopping in Dubai. There is more than 14 million square feet of shopping in the city. They do not just call them shopping malls but shopping resorts. The city boasts the largest mall in the world. To run into someone you know is not common at all.
So, I have decided that I am home. We are enjoying ourselves so much, why would we not call this home?
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Single Ladies - Put a Ring on It
For any of you who have ever planned a wedding or been in a wedding you are aware of all of the details that go into the wedding. After visiting India, I thought I would add my American commentary to the wedding and comment on some of the experiences we had. Check out the pictures below or on my Facebook page.
· Assuming that all of the flowers at Naveen’s wedding were real, they dropped serious money on them. Flowers may be cheaper in India than in the States, but in the States, they would have spent well north of $100K on flowers alone.
· The wedding ceremony and reception were at Jaya Gardens, an outdoor venue in Hyderabad frequently used for weddings.
· As far as the ceremony goes, there was not a procession where her father gave her away but there were some similarities.
· The ceremony began with Naveen sitting in a chair and Kranthi on the floor behind him. Both were facing the guests. As the ceremony progressed, Naveen moved to the floor but still with his back to her. Eventually he turned around and at first there was a "sheet" being held up between them by family but eventually that sheet was removed and they were on the floor facing one another and eventually side by side.
· Part of the ceremony included a time where their clothes were stitched together symbolizing they had been married.
· There were presented as husband and wife and the receiving line began at that point. They had some really sweet chairs to sit in - they looked like thrones - I think American weddings should incorporate the chairs.
· It's common (at least in the part of India where we were) for married women to wear toe rings - usually one the second toe of each foot - to indicate that they are married.
· Also, married women almost always wear sarees. There are other forms of traditional Indian dress, but if you see an Indian woman in a saree, it usually means that she is married.
· There was NO point at which Jeff and I were left alone. We were constantly attended to by a family member or a very close friend of the family. When it came time for the receiving line, we were personally escorted. When it came time to eat, we simply sat down and people served us. When it came time to join the various ceremonies, we had seats at the front every time - seats of honor. It was an amazingly kind gesture, we really were honored to be there.
· To brag on my husband for a moment, apparently Naveen tried to have Jeff be a witness on the wedding certificate. It did not happen because you have to be an Indian National but I thought it was a great honor that Naveen would consider that and ask for it.
· There were 1,700 people that came to bless Naveen and Kranthi at some point through out the week long celebration. There was food and drink at every event - an abundant amount of food and drink at every event.
· There were three photographers and three videographers at the wedding ceremony and they filmed for hours. For each of the other five events, there was at least one photographer and one videographer. I cannot begin to count the number of pictures they will review or the number of hours they will watch video. At the very least, the event is well documented. Naveen and Kranthi will have many wonderful pictures to remember this beautiful celebration.
· Indian brides usually receive gold jewelry from family and friends as gifts before the wedding. As in, a LOT of gold jewelry. Kranthi wore probably about $100K in gold at the wedding. Each day she had on different jewelry. Here is an excerpt from a January 2009 National Geographic article about gold in India:
The gold ornaments come out of the velvet boxes one by one, family heirlooms that Nagavi, a 23-year-old Indian bride, always knew she would wear on her wedding day. The eldest daughter of a coffee plantation owner in the southern Indian state of Karnataka, Nagavi grew up marveling at the weddings that mark the merger of two wealthy Indian families. But not until the morning of her own arranged wedding to the only son of another coffee plantation family does she understand just how achingly beautiful the golden tradition can be.
By the time Nagavi is ready for her wedding, the university graduate with a predilection for jeans and T-shirts has been transformed into an Indian princess, shimmering in gold. An exquisitely crafted hairpiece is so heavy—five and a half pounds of gold—that it pulls her head back. Three gold necklaces and a dozen bangles act as effective counterweights. Wrapped in an 18-foot-long sari woven with thread dipped in gold, Nagavi walks slowly out of her home, trying to keep her balance as she tosses rice over her head in a traditional gesture of farewell.
The gold treasures Nagavi wears—along with the jewelry and saris packed in the trunk of the SUV taking her to the wedding hall—are not a traditional dowry. In this circle of coffee growers around the town of Chikmagalur, unlike in many poorer parts of the country, it is considered unseemly for a groom's family to make explicit demands. "This is seen as my 'share' of the family wealth," says Nagavi, gazing at the millions of dollars of gold jewelry. As with any Indian wedding, the gold also serves to display the value she brings to the union. "With daughters, you have to start saving gold from the day they are born," says Nagavi's father, C. P. Ravi Shankar. "It's important to marry them off well."
Nowhere is the gold obsession more culturally entrenched than it is in India. Per capita income in this country of a billion people is $2,700, but it has been the world's runaway leader in gold demand for several decades. In 2007, India consumed 773.6 tons of gold, about 20 percent of the world gold market and more than double that purchased by either of its closest followers, China (363.3 tons) and the U.S. (278.1 tons). India produces very little gold of its own, but its citizens have hoarded up to 18,000 tons of the yellow metal—more than 40 times the amount held in the country's central bank.
India's fixation stems not simply from a love of extravagance or the rising prosperity of an emerging middle class. For Muslims, Hindus, Sikhs, and Christians alike, gold plays a central role at nearly every turning point in life—most of all when a couple marries. There are some ten million weddings in India every year, and in all but a few, gold is crucial both to the spectacle and to the culturally freighted transaction between families and generations. "It's written into our DNA," says K. A. Babu, a manager at the Alapatt jewelry store in the southwestern city of Cochin. "Gold equals good fortune."
· After the wedding ceremony, Kranthi returned to her home to gather her belongings and then her female family members escorted her to Naveen’s home. Considering how long everything lasts, this happened at about 3AM. Oddly enough, Kranthi's visa is not ready yet so Naveen is returning to America without her and she will come on December 17th. After Naveen leaves India, Kranthi will return to her family home and stay there until she leaves for America.
We were very blessed to have attended and there was not a moment that went by that we didn't know that they were blessed to have us there. We have some memories that will last a lifetime and look forward to seeing Naveen and Kranthi again - but who knows where that will be!!
India
Day 1 – Wednesday – The Marriage Ceremony
We flew out of Sharjah at 12:05am. The flight to Hyderabad was a little over 3 hours, so we landed at 5:30am local time and were met by the driver that Naveen and his family hired for us (this is a necessity in India - if you think we should have just rented a car, you've never been to India. Naveen doesn't even drive there anymore). We headed into town to check into the Marriott. Cindy and I got some sleep, had a fantastic lunch of local Indian cuisine at the hotel, and took afternoon tea. We arrived at the (Hindu) marriage ceremony at 6:30pm. We were escorted to the front of the tent where the ceremony was being held, and were seated in the first row on the left-hand side (where the bride’s parents would sit in a wedding back in the States). We were definitely treated like guests of honor. Not everyone showed up exactly at 6:30, but by the time the wedding ended, there were 1,200 people there. Naveen and his bride, Kranthi, were both seated on the stage at the front of the wedding tent. About 40 family members were seated around them on stage – with many of them coming and going throughout the ceremony to greet guests as they arrived.
I have no idea what the priest was saying/reading/doing since I don’t speak Telugu, Hindi, or Sanskrit, but the marriage rites lasted about 2 hours. There was a band of traditional Indian musicians that played every 10 minutes or so as the priest directed them. Then, after the marriage rites were concluded, there was a receiving line where Naveen and Kranthi stood on the stage, while the guests filed past them and sprinkled rice and flowers on their heads as a blessing. It appeared that less-important guests filed past first, with more important people coming towards the end. Many of the people who came through at the end paused to have a picture taken with the couple. We were told to wait until near the end at which time Naveen’s father personally escorted us up to the couple. Here are our pictures with them.
After the ceremony, and after going through the receiving line, we went back to another nearby tent for dinner. There were two tents for the reception, one of which had seating and the other of which had all of the buffet items – salads, Indian food, Chinese food, Thai food, desserts, and even ice cream, cotton candy, and popcorn for kids. Here are a few pictures of the “reception”. We left the reception at about 11pm.
Day 2 – Thursday – The Puja
On this day, we went to the “puja” – a religious ceremony at Naveen’s home. We sat around and visited with Naveen and his family for about 30 minutes before the puja started. They had a priest come to the home who told stories about their gods, and then instructed Naveen and Kranthi about how to be a good husband and a good wife. After this, Naveen, Kranthi, their families, and the guests burned incense and presented offerings (flowers, rice, coconuts, fruit) to their family god. The puja lasted from about 10:00am to 1pm. Here are some pictures.
After the puja, everyone went outside for more photos with the couple and for some food. They had the entire street in front of their villa blocked off and a tent erected for the party (maybe 50 yards long and stretching across the street). There were some people that came both Wednesday night and Thursday, but all told, there were about 1,600 people who came to the wedding, the puja, or both. Here are some more pictures.
One of the best parts of the day was that Naveen and his family got us some traditional Indian wedding clothes which they presented to us in a quick but formal ceremony. I’m not sure what you call my outfit, but Cindy’s is a saree (or sari). We absolutely loved getting to wear the clothes and get our pictures taken with everyone. They couldn’t have picked better colors for either of us. We think that as much as we liked it, the Indians liked it even more. Many of them did not speak English but we picked up “wow”, “beautiful” and “lovely.” They were definitely excited to see us wearing their traditional dress.
Day 3 – Friday – Around Hyderabad
Naveen’s family prepared an itinerary for us on this day. It was nice to have someone who knew exactly where to go and what sites we should see. We started the morning at the Birla Mandir Hindu temple in Tirupati. The temple was a beautiful marble structure (which is apparently a replica of another, more famous temple about 700km away that is made of gold). After that, we went to the Charminar district of Hyderabad, the oldest part of the city.

Then, we went to the Golconda Fort and the Qutub Tombs. You may not have heard of these, but if you have ever seen photographs of India or movies set in the tropical part of India (i.e., none of the buildings you saw were the Taj Mahal), this is what you saw. It was gorgeous. Here are some photos.

After this, we went shopping. We never go shopping when we travel, never. Not when we went to China, not in Paris or London or New York or Montreal, but we did today. We went to a shop for Cindy to look at more sarees. She didn’t buy any more sarees, but she did find some bangles to go with the sari she was given for the wedding. After that, we went pearl-shopping (Hyderabad is a major center of the global pearl trade, with 9 out of every 10 pearls sold in the world passing through here on the way to retailers. The craftsmanship of the merchants who drill, string, and mount pearls here is world-renowned). Cindy found a great necklace and earrings for an insane price. We also went by a couple of bakeries to pick up some local goodies.
Then, on Friday night, we had one final wedding function to attend, a dinner with the bride’s family at a local hotel. As usual, the food was abundant and outstanding. Again, we were treated as honored guests.
Day 4 – Saturday – Hyderabad and then Home
We had breakfast with Maruti, a work associate of Cindy’s who lives in Dallas. It was just coincidence that he happened to be in Hyderabad on business. So after breakfast, we went around to a couple more stores to shop, then headed to the airport for the flight back home. after being delayed at the airport, we ended up back in Sharjah at around midnight.
We were expecting a great trip and it was even better than we could have hoped. We're already planning to head back to India in the near future.
Monday, October 12, 2009
Sin Bin
Friday, October 9, 2009
Ana bihki Arabi
We started Arabic classes this week. The honeymoon is over! They have some crazy consonant combinations as well as a lot of guttural sounds. And reading and writing from right to left, that is hard in and of itself. The University has two classes - "The Alphabet, Numbers and Writing" and "Conversational Arabic." I am taking both classes and Jeff is taking the reading and writing class. I have yet to study or do my homework for this week and class meets tomorrow night. I can already tell I am going to be a bad student. If only blogging about class actually counted as studying.
For the Alphabet class, we learned how to write and say the first three letters and how they link or connect to the other letters. There are 28 letters in the alphabet but each letter is different depending on whether it is in the initial, medial or final position or if it stands alone. In other words 28 * 4 = 112 letters. Honeymoon is over.
The conversation class is even more difficult. We are learning crazy sounds and we have to practice in class so the instructor can "grade" us on our performance. One of the first words we learned was btihki, which means "do you speak?" The issue is that there are no silent letters so you have to pronounce the b and t as well as the h and k together. It does not exactly roll off of your tongue. All in all it is a fun class and we laugh a lot. I know I will get out of it what I put into it so I need to go study. I will leave you with a joke I heard not long ago:
What do you call a person who speaks three languages?
Answer: Trilingual
What do you call a person who speaks two languages?
Answer: Bilingual
What do you call a person who speaks one language?
Answer: American.
Monday, October 5, 2009
Women
She then sends me back to the receptionist to print my license. I wait for about 45 minutes for her to print it out but alas, after paying a little more than I should have, I am a legal driver in the UAE!

Thursday, October 1, 2009
New Car
Jeff and I were convinced that we would get a SUV once we arrived in Dubai. If you know anything about how they drive over here, the more metal around you the better off you will be. We were so convinced that we drove several SUVs before we left the States so that we could pull the trigger pretty quickly once we arrived.
Once we got over here, we found that the models of cars here are not exactly the same as the models of cars in the USA. Plus, there can be a significant difference in the pricing, depending on the car. We had assumed that things would be cheaper over here - based on what several friends had told us and what we had read online. This wasn't necessarily so.
For instance, we thought that we were interested in getting a Toyota Prado. It's an SUV that isn't sold in the States by Toyota. In the US, it's the Lexus GX. Same vehicle - same frame, styling, options, ride, etc. Everything - same. So we thought, "Wow, the Lexus GX is a great vehicle; the Prado should be about $10K less in the UAE since it has a Toyota badge on it instead of the 'L'." We had pretty much made up our minds about this vehicle before we moved. We just needed to find a dealership and write a check.

Nice, huh? Only there was no discount for buying a Toyota rather than a Lexus. Everybody wants a white SUV over here. And the Prado is more or less at the top of the heap (until you move up to Range Rovers and BMWs).
So at this point, Jeff got anxious about the Prado because of price (same as a Lexus back in the States) and Cindy wasn't crazy about some of the options (What - no keyless entry?). So then Jeff started thinking used, and Cindy started thinking about other SUVs, and our agreement fizzled into argument. [not bad arguments, just mild ones - don't worry, we're fine - this story has a happy ending - keep reading].
Anyhow, after disagreements about options, styling of vehicles, prices, etc., etc., Jeff and I were at an impasse - we could not agree on which SUV to get. So we dropped the SUV altogether and went back to sedans. We liked our car in Lubbock and so we started looking around for similar vehicles.
We landed on a used 2009 Volvo S80. We were fortunate that it only had 10,000 Kms (6,000 miles) on it. It even still smells new. We were totally hooked when we got a whiff of the new car smell. It seems that a British expat owned it and for whatever reason, had to sell it right after s/he bought it. We are happy to be the new owners and while it is not as big or dominating as an SUV, it is safe!
As you can see, it's a steel gray color. It has a tan interior and all of the bells and whistles. We love it. Come visit us, and we will take you for a ride.
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Same Kind of Different As Me
Well we have been here for about four weeks now and we have made a few observations. Who knows if these will play out to be true over time but here's what we have for now.
What's the Same on Campus
- Students - they are a lot like they are in Lubbock - here are some more details...
- Skipping class - yep, students do that everywhere.
- Clothes - same designer brands here. If anything, there is more high fashion here.
- Campus - big buildings and lots of room to walk.
- Cussing - we have heard every word in the book in English, no telling what Arabic cuss words we are missing out on!
What's Different on Campus
- Backpacks - no one here really carries a back pack, the women all carry purses and men generally don't have anything.
- iPods - they are not plugged in everywhere they go. Everyone walks in groups and talks the whole time. They are much more social.
- Call to prayer. We hear it all over town as well as campus.
- Names! They have sounds and letter combinations that we don't have in English. It has been a challenge to learn and (correctly) pronounce everyone's names!
Friday, September 25, 2009
Ramadan - Part III
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
High-End
Exhibit 1 - Cindy is teaching her class - talking to her students about how some companies differentiate themselves from their competitors by becoming "luxury" brands. She uses Mercedes-Benz as an example. Her students are taken aback and say "Mercedes are for common people. Lamborghini and Aston Martin - they make luxury cars." [this is an actual quote] . Here's a shot of some nice "middle-class" kids' cars.
At least they get the concept.
Exhibit 3 - Cindy notices one of her 18-year old sophomore students carrying a nice purse. Cindy thinks, "I wish I could find that bag in black - it's exactly what I've been looking for." So after class, Cindy heads back to her office, finds the bag online, and discovers that it's a $14,000 Hermes. FOURTEEN THOUSAND!!!
So basically, I'm saying that while the girls are all wearing black abayas and headscarves, they're carrying Gucci, Chanel, or Louis Vuitton bags. They have designer jeans and heels poking out from under the abayas. The Emirati guys have Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Jack Spade messenger bags. Not everybody rolls like that, but definitely more than at any school I've ever been to. So that's kind of crazy. We've got preppy Arab kids. It's like the SMU of the Middle East.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Ramadan - Part II
Ramadan
The dates for Ramadan change each year because Muslims follow a lunar calendar rather than a solar calendar, but this year, Ramadan lasted from August 22 to September 19. Next year, Ramdan will move forward by about 11 days.
So what is Ramadan like for Muslims? Here are four of the most obvious ways. First, most Muslims wake at around 3:30 or 4am to have a substantial breakfast before morning prayers at around 4:30am. Second, the workday is shortened for everyone (by law) from 8 hours to 6 hours. That way Muslims who are fasting can get in a little siesta. Third, after sunset and after evening prayer, at around 6:30pm, everyone will break their fast with a large dinner, called an Iftar. Ramadan is a time of the year to be with family and friends - similar to the way Christians want to spend Christmas with family - and so most families gather each evening for their Iftar or afterward to spend time together. Everybody ends up becoming a little more nocturnal during Ramadan.
So what is it like for non-Muslims like Cindy and I to live here during Ramadan? Well, it's different. Because most people are active in the morning and evening but sleeping during part of the afternoon, most businesses change their hours. For instance, Cindy and I have been car-shopping and we were surprised to hear that most dealerships are open from about 9-12 in the morning, and then again from 9-12 at night. Most stores and shops have similar hours. So it takes some planning to get used to the adjusted schedule. It was a little hard to convince ourselves to head out to car-shop at 9 at night - usually that's when we're winding down for the day - but that's what we did.
Also, because most people are fasting, it is considered highly offensive for people who aren't fasting to eat or drink in public during daytime. Restaurants are required by law to close during the daylight hours (some will still do carryout, however). And the University where I work has a special room set aside where non-Muslim faculty, staff, and students to go to eat their lunches and snacks. Not a big deal, but you just have to plan what you're taking for lunch a little more carefully - you can't just run over to the campus Burger King like usual.
The other big difference is Iftar. Since most of the country is fasting, dinner becomes a major event every day. Restaurants and hotels go all-out for Iftar buffets. We hear that most Muslims put on weight during Ramadan (kind of like the holidays back home :) - I'm waiting to see if gyms run post-Ramadan specials). Even non-Muslims attend Iftars - and the meals are pretty impressive. Below are some pictures of some of the simpler Iftars that we went to with fellow faculty members. We also went to a couple of full-on five-star Iftar buffets. More than anything, we enjoyed the Iftars as a way to get together with people and start to make some new friends.
Enjoy the pictures and let us know if you have any questions.
PS - The bald guy in the foreground on the right is Kevin, the guy who led us to the "teahouse." [If you missed that story, look for the post from earlier in September entitled "Misadventure #1"].
My Crib
After we arrived, we found out that our housing was not ready and that we would be in a hotel "until some construction is finished." We were told that it should be a matter of weeks, but could stretch into months. I could make this story longer, but that is the gist of it.
The hotel that we stayed in was OK. It was clean, it was across from the beach, we had two meals per day provided. About a dozen of us from the University were at the hotel. There was a bus to and from school each day. So we made it work.
After one month of hotel life, we are now on campus. They still do not have the two bedroom ready for us but the one bedroom is nice and we are very glad to be on campus. So the bottom line is that we're "happier" with our housing situation, but not completely "happy." Nevertheless, we like our new place. We have a 10 minute walk to work or a five minute bus ride. Here are some pictures.


